This is a build log, the final autotune hasn’t been performed yet, thus the PIDS/ Diff files aren’t provided yet.

Every few weeks someone will ask at the INAV Fixed Wing Group Facebook Group what a good first plane would be. And there will be twenty replies and twenty different ideas. The word “Bixler” usually gets thrown around.  People love the Bixler! It flies well, it’s easy to build  and as someone mentioned “It’s an easy goto plane, it stays in the air twice as long as any other plane.”

Unfortunately, it’s also easy to setup poorly and end up with a shelf queen.  So, with this in mind, I wanted to make an INAV FPV  set-up plan that people could follow.  The idea is a successful Bixler that you will enjoy flying.  Something that would not only be a good first plane but a good 30th INAV plane.  But please keep in mind, this will be for a Bixler that is a  ‘Go-to Bird’, one that is designed for relaxed FPV.  If your goal is long-range FPV, this document won’t help. Honestly, your money is better spent on other planes that are far better suited for long-range FPV.

To me, the Bixler 2 is light and fun to fly  if you have it setup right.   It just floats nicely, is a tad bit agile and doesn’t want to come out of the sky.  It’s a derivative of the very popular (in its era) Multiplex Easy Star.    As the name suggests the “2” in “Bixler 2”  means that it’s the second version of the Bixler, with 100mm more wingspan than it’s version 1.1  The version 3 (1550mm)  is also available but I’m happy with the 2.

Bang for the buck the Bixler 2 is a steal!  1.5 meters of floaty goodness. It’s a mid-fuselage pusher plane.  For the beginner it means that your hands are kept away from the props at all times.  For someone a bit more experienced it means less broken props and no props on the nose should you want to stick an action cam upfront.

The Bixler 2 is somewhat forgotten about plane, if we’re being honest.  Planes like this go through times when they are sought after, forgotten, then rediscovered. For a variety of reasons I think the era of the Bixler 2 is in the rediscovery phase.  It’s cheap and flies well, if you work at it, it’s a compelling FPV plane.

Why not the Bixler 1 or 3

Bixler 1

Hobby King now sells the Bixler 1.1 V2.  It’s very similar to the Bixler 2, only 100mm (4 inches) shorter wingspan than the 2.  If there was no Bixler 2 this article would be about the Bixler 1. The Bixler 2 is a bit larger and a bit more stable in the air. I just love how it flies.  I also like the  Bixler 1. It is a bit more sporty, and can fly around in smaller areas nicely.  But, if I were going for only one, it would be the Bixler 2.

Bixler 3

The Bixler 3 didn’t get the best reviews from some online bloggers I follow.  It’s only 50mn (2 inches) larger than the Bixler 2 and I’ve always felt the Bixler 3 was overengineered.  It’s the newest Bixler and there are no provisions for FPV. For the price range the Volantex 1600 offers an all  around better plane.  It’s hard for me to justify the additional money to buy this plane, but others in the group have started off with this plane and seem to be happy.

The Bixler 2 is not an FPV plane

This looks like  fun, but it’s going to struggle with this much weight.

Does the Bixler 2 have it’s own set of issues?  Oh yeah!  The first and most pressing is that it’s really not an FPV plane. The design of this plane predates mainstream fixed-wing  FPV.  Thus, there aren’t any provisions for anything FPV.  It’s not like the Finwing Albabird or Volantex  Ranger 2000 where the planes were built with FPV in mind. But wait, it gets worse!  The Bixler 2 has a couple of really funky design issues that make me scratch my head and wonder.

#1. Interior servos are in areas you can’t get to.

This one has me stumped. The Radian and even the Bixler 1.1 V2 have access panels on the bottom of the plane for you to get to the servos. You can remove the arms and even swap out the servo if needed. On the Bixler 2 the servos are located  on the sidewall of the fuselage in an area you can’t easily get to, especially if you have large hands.  This means if you have to reset your servo by removing the control arm it’s going to be difficult. This means you need to center the servos before you build the plane.  The control rods are also difficult to hook onto the servo control arm.  

#2 Wing spar covers are long and weak

The wing spars and servos have  removable covers. I am not a fan of this and glue the covers on. It would have been better to seal the wings like nearly all other planes and the have ports to pull out servo wires to extend them.

Considerations for the Bixler 2


The Bixler 2 does have provisions for flaps.  Before you add this, be warned, the servos and wiring add extra weight to the plane.  Flaps provide the advantage of  slowing the plane down for a landing and for an abbreviated take off.  It also provides the plane the ability to slow down and catch thermals. With all this in mind, do you really need flaps?  The plane is easy enough to land, and doesn’t suffer from ground effect. It’s a tad bit difficult to launch. But, unless you’re really going to use the flaps with some purpose in mind, seriously, skip the flaps.

INAV Electronics Placement

This is in my opinion the single largest issue with the Bixler 2.  It requires you think about it up front and plan accordingly. Or  you will end up with a rat’s nest of wires.  In the most recent build, I have kept the build simple so that I am not dealing with wires.   I want a plane that is simple, assembles and disassembles easily and prevents me from having to worry about accidentally unplugging wires when changing a battery. 


The temptation is there to load this plane up with gear. But part of the equation of why the Bixler is beloved by many is that it’s fairly easy to build somewhat light.  If you keep it light it floats very nicely. The floating flying experience is different from flying a wing.  To get that glider flying experience you need to keep this plane light.


There are a fair number of compelling motors that will work fine with this plane.  Since the introduction of the first Bixler many years ago there are far more options for 2200KV motors that will make this plane fly well with a  6-8” prop.  Strong, agile, somewhat efficient, and perhaps noisy.

HobbyKing suggests the 2620 1300KV.  Unfortunately,  that information needs be updated since the motor is no longer sold  It wasn’t that great so it really shouldn’t be sought out. A 2212 1400KV motor would be a better substitute for this motor if it can run 4S.  The Sunnysky X2212 V3 1400KV is a great motor for this plane.


This is a major issue with the Bixler 2.  I will say that my battery tends to get hot and I haven’t really noticed issues with the ESC on my original , but then again I don’t always check.  So, this time around I am going out of my way to work on airflow issues. Good airflow for the battery and the ESC will be mounted outside the plane.

The Build

With this build I plan to not take it out more than 2KM. The areas I fly at mean I either have to fly over residential areas or fly over places that would be nearly impossible for me to get to should the plane go down. So, I am more about relaxed FPV than long range.

Plane: Bixler 2 Kit
Servos: MG9S (Four)
ESC: Racerstar BLHeli 30A (16bit)
Motor: Sunnysky X2216 1250KV (Black)
Prop APC Style 9×6
FPV Camera:  Foxeer Razer
VTX: Eachine TS5828L
VTX Antenna : Foxeer Lollipop
GPS: BN-220
Flight Controller-Matek F405-Wing


< 1000g AUW
20 to 30 minute flight times
Clutter free build without dangling wires.

The Powertrain

The Sunnysky motor was for another project that I never used.  On 3S with this setup it will not get past 20A of current draw.  Thus a 30 ESC is fine.  To lift the motor up higher I used a SmallParts CNC Bixler 2 motor mount (more on this later). It worked with this motor shaft sticking back into the plane. The motor is for  a plane like a Phoenix 2000.

FPV Gear

Not top shelf by any stretch of the imagination.  A fairly good middle of the road FPV camera, and a 600mw VTX.   It’s not going to deliver stunning video, but it will be okay.

The Flight Controller

The Matek F405-Wing is a workhorse. Its a bit of a large footprint, but for this plane it’s fine. To make things easier to access the USB port I placed it in the plane with the arrows pointing to the back of the plane instead of the front.  I adjust yaw by 180 degrees to account for this.  I will eventually have a dump file for the Bixler 2 at the end of this article. If you wish to use it, you will need to use a Matek F405-Wing.

Another flight controller worth considering if you can handle your own setup is the Matek F411-Wing.  It’s no-frills and is missing a blackbox but for such a simple build you may enjoy it’s smaller footprint and lower price.  If you want a very “baller’ build, try the Matek H743-Wing so that you can push the flight controller and it’s wiring further back into the fuselage.  You may want to direct solder the connections onto the board. Check them over carefully before you seal up the plane. The advantage to this is that the USB and reboot button can be mounted in areas that you can reach.  Most of the rest of the wiring would be out of the way.  You would still be able to flash the flight controller and do calibrations.  

Building strategy

I am going to make some assumptions for this build guide. The first is that you’ve built an RC  plane before. If not, it’s great if you can get help from someone who flies. If this isn’t possible, when you get stuck, be sure to ask for help in the group.  The build manual for the Bixler 2 can be found here:

It pretty much assumes that you’ve built the plane before as well. This was the closest I could find to a kit build for the Bixler 2

The build is going to take you longer than you expect. There are a fair number of things that need to be soldered, you will need extension wires for your servo wires and unfortunately this isn’t a plane you can easily open once again if you need  to replace something.

Usually we suggest you just build a plane without the INAV gear, get it flying well in manual then add the INAV gear. Not with this plane. You need to build the INAV electronics into the fuselage before you seal it up.  That means you need to check everything over before you seal the plane.  The plane will need to arm and spin the motors, the servos need to show they are working.  You will need to see video and your OSD screen. Here are some images from the build

Decals removed, foam primer applied

Spray paint applied

Electronics build first

This was not the final setup I used but the point remains that there are no bullet connectors with this plane because if they come loose they are nearly impossible to reattach..

F405-Wing Base

The Bix2 needs servo extensions

This is where the FLAPS servo goes. The servo connector was just long enough to reach this spot. This is where I tie it to the extension cable from the plane.

Tight servo placement

The servos are a tight fit. You can make out the cut out for the screwdriver in case you need to remove the control arm to reposition it.  You don’t get this luxury with the elevator and rudder.

Keeping it simple and clean

For such a simple plane I found myself having to rethink this build a few times, which is FANTASTIC.  I believe that the more I struggle with this build, the more I will learn and apply to other models. On consideration was placing the VTX wires near the ESC wires which was a no-no.  That would have affected video performance.

The build strategy is fairly simple.  Add the electronics first before both halves of the fuselage are glued together.    Since the plane is prone to being a rat’s nest of wires, the smartest thing to do is keep cable lengths short or out of the way.  Also turning the flight controller around (180 degree yaw) wil help keep the wire jungle to a minimum.

It looks like a mess but this is fairly clean. These are the two halves of the plane prior to sealing them together.  I check to make sure all electronics were working

Three zones

 Since all of the electronics will be on the fuselage, I used  3 zones for  radio placement.  This will help to keep the reception good by keeping the VTX, GPS, and RX apart from each other.  (Note, this worked very well!)

This image shows 3 things. I used a red hot  16-penny nail to melt a hole into the foam to bring the GPS wires through. Later on I glued these wires to the fuselage.  Second, you can see the servo placement.  Remove the decal from the side to be glued.  Make sure it’s centered at 1500 and the control arm is on before gluing.  Last, you can see how far the blue sticks went into the fuselage. Also note, fishing sinkers used in the nose.

Zone 1/Nose/GPS–  I was going to put the GPS on the nose up top.  I was going to run wires up to it from under the fuselage to keep things neat. Instead I put the GPS under the foam with the decal pointing down.  Zone 1 is closest to the nose.  In the end I found this separation worked decently enough to call it a success.  Satellites were found faster than on other planes I have.  The battery doesn’t touch the GPS when being inserted or removed.

Zone 2/ Mid-plane/-VTX–  I’ve been over and over this one again in my mind.  This is what most people do with the Bixler 2.

The idea of a pod to hold your gear is very sexy.   Let’s look at that closely. We can squeeze a flight controller  onto that setup (F411 WSE  on the bottom) , the VTX, GPS and FPV camera. The antenna sits up against the back wall. What’s not to like?   From what I can tell the battery sits behind the FPV camera. This throws it’s useful CG further back which then requires more weight in the nose. The good news is that everything is kept cool, the bad news is that the GPS will take a long time to find a signal.  Worse, if you go cloud surfing of flying on days somewhat wet days the electronics won’t get protection. The weight on top provides for issues should the plane fly inverted and the mount fails.

But, how do you mount the VTX and antenna?  Then it occurred to me. Place it up high and in the middle of the plane.  The idea is to use common hardware store dowels to hold up the VTX and als mount a camera. In order to do this I had to use a soldering iron with a spade tip to melt away the foam.  More on this in the “Mods” section.

The fuselage was glued together and allowed to dry overnight. It was held together by rubber bands and tie-down straps.

Zone 3-RX-   I am using a simple XM+ with enough range to make me happy. It goes in the back, far away from other electronics. This one is near the tail. You can see the FrSky XM+ with yellow shrink wrap over it in the back The photo shows a black wire next to the XM+, this is in case I want to use an R9MM in the future.

The second servo wire is for LED lights in the future.


I know the limitations of the Bixler 2.  It’s not a fast plane per se, it likes to float and it can fly slow.  It can glide and be very easy on the energy consumption. If you like the idea of the Bixler 2 but want speed, get the  Readymade RC  Stratosurfer. With the right motor combination it can really rip up the sky. It’s about $100 more (US) for this option.

Knowing the Bixler’s limitations, it’s still a fantastic plane.  You can do short range to medium range FPV flying with it, perhaps further if you dial it in.  There were a fair number of people who set the Bixler up for long range back around the 2014 era. They didn’t have  a lot of options back then so they made do with the Bixler.   In the effort to hold more gear you end up with a plane that is heavy.  Many of these planes needed wheels because they are nearly impossible to hand launch. Anyway, this sucks to fun and joy out of the plane and it will need more repairs for anything less than ideal landings.  

I did find a fairly nice INAV Bixler 1.1 v2 video build. The issue was the VTX was on the wing and it had a camera pod.   Too much work to setup, and too many wires to worry about, no thanks! 

The mods

Painting and laminating– Painting is optional.  The graphics are nice for a basic white foam plane.   The problem with white foam is that it tends to get dirty fairly quickly landing on wet grass.  Lamination also provides support for the plane and keeps it looking clean. The downside is that your plane looks like it’s inside a sandwich bag.

The decals for the most part had to be pried off with an Xacto knife. They didn’t always come off in one piece.  If it’s a real concern and you want a fresh set you can order them from Hobby King.  I used Krylon Foam Primer and then white and orange spray paint.  I only used 1 coat of primer. The entire paint job was done on one warm day. The lamination was done the next day.  I was able to recycle quite a few decals from the plane. Thus, I used 3M Super 77 to take the old decals down to the plane before lamination. I used 5 Mil lamination which made it difficult to work with on curves.  But, it’s solid.

This is the same dowels when the the VTX was glued to it.  I decided for a smaller antenna after mounting this one.   I was also gluing the ESC to the plane at the time.

TX Dowel Mod

I found this thick round dowels at my local hardware store.  My idea was to have the dowels stick up a bit from the top of the plane so that I could use it as a base to hold up the VTX and antenna. Then on the other side the FPV camera. I have a 60 watt soldering iron with a spade tip that just melted away the foam that made this mod very easy to do.  Glue the dowels in place. The only real downside is that this channel for running wires is lost.

With this I could  perhaps boost VTX range. Will that help with long range VTX reception?  Yes, I was actually very pleasantly surprised how well the VTX reception worked.  The plane had actually gotten away from me a bit when I was doing an autotrim. There wasn’t the usual degrade in signal.

Motor Mod

This is the Smallparts CNC motor mount prior to being installed into the plane As you can see it raises the motor up which allows for larger props.

The hobby has changed a lot  when being cheap was buying a $150 gas motor. Now if I suggest buying a Badass motor for $34 people will wonder if I am rolling with Bill Gates type of money?    So, what I will say is that there are $10 motors that will work fine with this plane, when you get into the $20 to $30 range there are a lot of great motors that will work with this plane.  When you get to a Badass motors I have a gripe.  Their numbering methods aren’t customary or standard.   This is what I think will work with the Bixler 2 nicely.

The 2310 is a strange number, as best as I can tell it’s a 2830 motor which is great for this plane. The specs seem to work. There is a lot of data with Badass motors which can be useful. At a full 4S  you can drive an 8×6 prop which means you won’t need an aftermarket motor mount for this plane. To achieve want to drive 900g of thrust  you can use an APC 8×4 or 8×6 prop. If you want to fly this on 6S you will need to drop down to a 6×4 prop and efficiency plummets.  If you want a combination of thrust and efficiency then the Bixler will need to take a 9” prop and 3S.

Spelling it out in simple terms

Looking at motor specs with propeller combinations will drive you insane.   If you’re flying race quads, trust me, you’re staying up late nights seeing if you can squeeze out a few extra grams of thrust at any cost.  This mentality doesn’t work for the Bixler. This plane isn’t well setup for speed.  If you want this plane but demand speed, buy the Stratosurfer. You will be so much happier.  

What you’re looking for with the Bixler is a motor that will not bring the plane down in 5 minutes with an exhausted battery. And you’re looking for a motor that has enough thrust to get the plane in the air. And that’s about it.  A nicer motor is usually quieter. If you fly near where people live, this is a concern. Bang for the buck, I like the Sunnysky X2212 V3 1400KV or the X2216 V3 1400KV.  I have these motors laying around and could have put it on my plane.  I just so happened to have an old black Sunnysky 1250KV X2216 1250KV motor.  If I were buying a motor for this plane, I would probably go for the X2216 V3 1400 KV motor.  New newer blue motors have between 10 and 20 percent more thrust.

Motor Mount Mod

To lift the motor up higher for a 9” prop you’ll need this. It’s the best one in the market.

Speed controller– If you have an old 30A or 40A speed controller for a plane laying around, throw it in, unless it’s of inferior quality.  I am putting in a BLHeli 30A whatever speed controller. The kids eat these things up like candy for their quads so they are always less than $10.  This time I am going to do something a bit different.   The ESC will be up top mounted close the motor. It’s going to get air cooling which is a good thing and it will allow me to swap out motors and newer speed controllers easily. I am running all power lines for the speed controller away from the VTX lines.  I put on a 470Mh Low ESR capacitor to cut down on video noise from the ESC.

FPV Camera

Part of my whole “Let’s keep the Bixler 2 simple and fun” mentality is that my stupidity does cost me.  The easiest place to mount an FPV camera would be on a pod that replaces the canopy.   But, I would end up with dangling wires and have to work around sliding a battery in and out.  I built a Bixler 1 and put FPV camera on the nose. But, it bounced around so much that the vibration made for a blurry image. So, the next best spot was right above the canopy on the highest part of the plane. And that was the plan until I decided to use sticks and put the antenna there.  Thus, I put it up high on the sticks and got a nice view of the nose of the plane as well as good coverage from the video.


The FrSky XM Plus is nice and light and can be strapped to the back of the plane without much issue. Just to be safe, I will run a 4th wire so that I can pick up telemetry should I put in an R9 Mini  RX back there in the future. 

LED Lights?

 I live in  an area where the neighbors will call the cops if they see a multi colored lighted plane out flying around. So, flying under the radar is what I am about.  But, I will run an extra servo wire should I want to hook up a set of LEDs in the future.

All Up Weight

All up weight-963g. I was hoping for less than 900 but this is about as light as I can make it.  Did it hit my “Light and Floaty” ideal?  Yes!

How it flies (Updated 12/3/2020)

Okay, so a lot has gone on with this plane. I gave it an autotrim, another autotrim and more and more and still the plane didn’t fly well. Then I built the CG Bar Project and found that the plane was tail heavy. A little more weight in the nose and the plane was golden once again.

Then I crashed it for a reason I’ve never crashed a plane. I used E6000 (a light coat) to glue the tail on. During a flight it simply came off. I found it in a bush about 20 minutes later. only the canopy broke. This time I use 30-minute epoxy and it’s rock solid.

With the CG right I found that the ailerons needed the slightest amount of tuning. The elevator and rudder autotrim gave me values I wasn’t pleased with. I put this plane through maybe a dozen flights before I went for an autotune. More about that later.

I can honestly say that this plane gets better every time I fly it. It’s quickly becoming one of my favorites.

What it’s like to fly

To really describe it I kind need to tell you about myself. Prior to INAV I flew Line of Sight planes. I tended to like flying wings, well, honestly I love them, it’s mostly what I own. One of my friends suggested the Bixler 2. So I built one, and I didn’t get it at first. After a while I dialed it in and really liked the plane. Then with all the INAV tuning I started to become a purist when it came to plane setups. I had to start over with a lot of planes. Find the CG, get that dialed in, then get the trims set properly. When I started flying RC planes I have a friend who doesn’t live very close to me help me out, on occasion. He got me in the air, but the reality was that I didn’t really know how setup a plane well and when I first started flying I was happy with anything that flew. But, once I started to dial in what a plane should fly like I was no longer smitten with anything that flew. I went back and tapped down the Bixler 2 once again. I got the CG right, and didn’t need servo trims. When I got that Bixler flying better than it’s ever flown before I found the spot where I thought the CG was best, which was where the spar covers are closest to the leading edge.

The LOS Bixler was flying fantastic, but the INAV Bixler 2 wasn’t doing as well. When I got the CG right and then did an autotrim the plane came alive. It was different than a flying wing. With a flying wing the wind is something you deal with. With the Bixler the wind accents your flight. You go up and down and explore the space. I think the thing that scares me the most about the Bixler 2 is how fast the plane can gain altitude and how smoothly it can do it. With a wing if you want to gain altitude you point the nose to the sky and apply power. With the Bixler 2, with the nose nearly level you can gain 70 meters in a minute and not really notice. You soar in the sky.

The key to setting up the Bixler 2

You are going to need a servo tester. They are dirt cheap and you really should own one. Set your servos to 1500, get the servo arms at right angles. Set your flight controller to defaults. Make sure your control surfaces are flat, get your CG right. At defaults the plane should be extremely flyable. It may be a bit sluggish in its control, but an auto trim and auto tune should fix that.

Launching the Bixler 2

I literally hold the Bixler 2 by the nose and power up until I feel like it wants to break free from my hand, then I run for five steps and give it a good steady toss. I am of course holding full backstick and for the first second the plane flies parallel to the ground, then it shoots up. Be ready to level it out some when this happens, you don’t want the Bixler tip stalling. Then you can start your journey.

The Diff File

I am including my Diff file for the Bixler 2. Use it at your own risk. If you crash your plane, it’s on you.

The Diff file works with INAV FWG’s Std Model version #1 for OpenTX. I am also removing the ACC portion, so you will need to give your flight controller a calibration at some point, or it won’t arm. There will be a reason I cannot get into right now as to why I will be updating this document, but trust me, it’s for a very reason. As I tighten up the PIDs I may have future updates to this document. So check back in now and then. I found that with these pids the Bixler 2 is very responsive. If you have any suggestions or ideas about how to improve this build, write to me here.

If you are not using a Matek F405-Wing flight controller this may not work


If you want to setup your own flight controller (recommended) here’s my feed PIDs and settings


batch start

INAV/MATEKF405SE 2.6.0 Nov 20 2020 / 21:17:33 (27266e34)
GCC-9.2.1 20191025 (release) [ARM/arm-9-branch revision 277599]
start the command batch

mmix reset

mmix 0 1.000 0.000 0.000 0.000
mmix 1 1.000 0.000 0.000 0.000

servo mix

smix reset

smix 0 3 0 100 0 -1
smix 1 4 0 100 0 -1
smix 2 3 14 100 0 -1
smix 3 4 14 -100 0 -1
smix 4 5 2 100 0 -1
smix 5 2 1 100 0 -1


servo 3 1000 2000 1500 -100
servo 4 1000 2000 1500 -100


feature MOTOR_STOP
feature GPS
feature BLACKBOX


serial 0 1 115200 57600 0 115200
serial 3 2 115200 115200 0 115200


led 0 2,6::C:2
led 1 3,6::C:2
led 2 4,6::C:2
led 3 5,6::C:2
led 4 7,6::CO:9
led 5 8,6::CO:9
led 6 9,6::CO:9
led 7 10,6::C:9


aux 0 0 0 1100 2100
aux 1 1 0 1550 1675
aux 2 2 0 1425 1550
aux 3 3 0 1675 1925
aux 4 11 0 1800 1925
aux 5 10 0 1925 2100
aux 6 45 0 1675 1800
aux 7 12 0 1175 1300
aux 8 37 1 1700 2100
aux 9 21 1 900 1300
aux 10 42 2 900 1300
aux 11 43 2 1300 1700
aux 12 44 2 1700 2100

wp 0 invalid

osd_layout 0 0 18 4 H
osd_layout 0 1 13 3 H
osd_layout 0 2 0 0 V
osd_layout 0 7 14 13 V
osd_layout 0 9 1 2 H
osd_layout 0 11 4 3 V
osd_layout 0 12 2 4 V
osd_layout 0 14 8 10 V
osd_layout 0 15 8 3 V
osd_layout 0 24 12 4 V
osd_layout 0 28 12 11 V
osd_layout 0 30 2 14 V
osd_layout 0 38 3 5 H
osd_layout 0 41 2 7 V
osd_layout 0 42 18 3 V
osd_layout 0 45 0 0 V
osd_layout 0 86 5 12 V
osd_layout 1 0 8 0 V
osd_layout 1 1 1 9 V
osd_layout 1 5 1 0 V
osd_layout 1 7 23 1 V
osd_layout 1 8 9 1 V
osd_layout 1 10 7 2 V
osd_layout 1 11 17 9 V
osd_layout 1 12 22 9 V
osd_layout 1 13 23 7 H
osd_layout 1 14 1 2 V
osd_layout 1 15 23 4 H
osd_layout 1 16 1 4 V
osd_layout 1 17 1 5 V
osd_layout 1 18 1 6 V
osd_layout 1 20 2 14 V
osd_layout 1 21 2 15 V
osd_layout 1 22 14 2 H
osd_layout 1 23 25 7 V
osd_layout 1 25 6 5 H
osd_layout 1 26 1 7 H
osd_layout 1 28 23 2 H
osd_layout 1 30 2 3 V
osd_layout 1 31 1 1 V
osd_layout 1 32 11 9 V
osd_layout 1 34 10 1 H
osd_layout 1 35 2 14 H
osd_layout 1 37 24 0 V
osd_layout 1 38 6 9 V
osd_layout 1 40 25 6 V
osd_layout 1 46 23 2 V
osd_layout 1 47 16 2 V
osd_layout 1 48 23 3 H
osd_layout 1 49 23 4 H
osd_layout 1 53 13 0 V
osd_layout 1 54 18 0 V
osd_layout 1 56 1 7 V
osd_layout 1 57 14 14 V
osd_layout 1 59 14 15 V
osd_layout 1 67 17 5 V
osd_layout 1 68 17 4 V
osd_layout 1 69 17 6 V
osd_layout 1 70 17 7 V
osd_layout 1 71 2 12 V
osd_layout 1 72 9 12 V
osd_layout 1 73 19 12 V
osd_layout 1 75 2 13 V
osd_layout 1 76 11 13 V
osd_layout 1 77 19 13 V
osd_layout 1 79 2 10 V
osd_layout 1 80 2 11 V
osd_layout 1 85 23 7 H
osd_layout 1 86 25 5 V
osd_layout 1 87 25 4 V
osd_layout 1 88 26 6 H
osd_layout 1 105 2 7 H
osd_layout 2 0 2 1 V
osd_layout 2 1 0 0 H
osd_layout 2 3 8 6 V
osd_layout 2 6 24 15 V
osd_layout 2 7 25 1 V
osd_layout 2 8 9 2 H
osd_layout 2 9 24 0 V
osd_layout 2 11 8 14 V
osd_layout 2 12 9 10 H
osd_layout 2 13 1 7 V
osd_layout 2 14 17 1 H
osd_layout 2 15 25 4 V
osd_layout 2 19 13 14 V
osd_layout 2 22 10 1 V
osd_layout 2 23 1 4 V
osd_layout 2 24 13 1 V
osd_layout 2 25 5 7 V
osd_layout 2 26 25 9 V
osd_layout 2 28 22 2 H
osd_layout 2 29 2 15 V
osd_layout 2 30 1 13 V
osd_layout 2 32 2 14 V
osd_layout 2 33 0 0 V
osd_layout 2 34 11 0 V
osd_layout 2 37 24 13 H
osd_layout 2 38 1 12 H
osd_layout 2 39 18 14 H
osd_layout 2 40 24 2 H
osd_layout 2 41 1 10 V
osd_layout 2 42 25 10 V
osd_layout 2 45 0 0 V
osd_layout 2 46 24 14 V
osd_layout 2 47 17 14 V
osd_layout 2 49 1 3 H
osd_layout 2 50 5 1 H
osd_layout 2 51 0 0 H
osd_layout 2 54 0 10 H
osd_layout 2 75 1 2 H
osd_layout 2 85 1 6 V
osd_layout 2 86 23 2 H
osd_layout 2 87 0 0 H
osd_layout 2 88 0 12 H
osd_layout 2 96 20 1 V
osd_layout 2 97 9 15 V
osd_layout 2 99 7 0 V
osd_layout 2 100 25 7 H
osd_layout 3 0 25 15 V
osd_layout 3 2 0 0 V
osd_layout 3 3 8 6 V
osd_layout 3 4 8 6 V
osd_layout 3 7 25 14 V
osd_layout 3 9 25 14 V
osd_layout 3 11 2 3 V
osd_layout 3 13 0 5 V
osd_layout 3 15 25 3 V
osd_layout 3 19 2 15 H
osd_layout 3 22 20 1 V
osd_layout 3 23 2 14 V
osd_layout 3 24 12 2 V
osd_layout 3 25 1 5 V
osd_layout 3 26 26 5 V
osd_layout 3 28 1 0 V
osd_layout 3 29 24 0 V
osd_layout 3 30 1 12 V
osd_layout 3 32 2 15 V
osd_layout 3 34 10 1 V
osd_layout 3 38 0 14 V
osd_layout 3 40 24 11 H
osd_layout 3 41 1 2 H
osd_layout 3 42 25 3 H
osd_layout 3 45 0 0 V
osd_layout 3 46 23 14 H
osd_layout 3 97 9 15 V


set gyro_hardware_lpf = 188HZ
set acc_hardware = MPU6000
set mag_hardware = NONE
set baro_hardware = BMP280
set pitot_hardware = NONE
set rssi_channel = 16
set motor_pwm_rate = 1000
set failsafe_procedure = RTH
set failsafe_mission = OFF
set align_board_pitch = -32
set align_board_yaw = 1800
set model_preview_type = 14
set small_angle = 180
set applied_defaults = 3
set gps_provider = UBLOX7
set gps_sbas_mode = WAAS
set gps_ublox_use_galileo = ON
set inav_w_z_baro_p = 0.350
set nav_wp_radius = 3000
set nav_rth_climb_first = OFF
set nav_rth_allow_landing = NEVER
set nav_rth_altitude = 5000
set nav_fw_bank_angle = 30
set nav_fw_loiter_radius = 6000
set nav_fw_control_smoothness = 2
set osd_video_system = PAL
set osd_rssi_alarm = 0
set osd_time_alarm = 0
set osd_alt_alarm = 0
set osd_dist_alarm = 0
set osd_neg_alt_alarm = 0
set osd_gforce_alarm = 0.000
set osd_gforce_axis_alarm_min = 0.000
set osd_gforce_axis_alarm_max = -0.100
set osd_imu_temp_alarm_min = 0
set osd_imu_temp_alarm_max = 0
set osd_baro_temp_alarm_min = 0
set osd_baro_temp_alarm_max = 0
set osd_failsafe_switch_layout = ON
set name = Bixler 2


profile 1

set fw_p_pitch = 9
set fw_i_pitch = 20
set fw_ff_pitch = 100
set fw_i_roll = 11
set fw_ff_roll = 53
set max_angle_inclination_rll = 600
set max_angle_inclination_pit = 400
set fw_turn_assist_pitch_gain = 0.100
set mc_iterm_relax = OFF
set mc_iterm_relax_cutoff = 20
set d_boost_factor = 1.000
set rc_expo = 30
set rc_yaw_expo = 70
set roll_rate = 22
set pitch_rate = 12
set yaw_rate = 10


battery_profile 1

end the command batch

batch end